Five Ways to Get More Out of 4 X 4s.

November 30th, 2011
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By Douglas Hunter

The 4 X 4 has been the staple form of interval training for about seventeen years now but its popularity does not mean it can’t be manipulated.  Here are five suggestions for making interval training more challenging. Read the rest of this entry »

Case Study: Climber X part 3

November 17th, 2011
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The goal of our last working session was to piece together a training plan for X. Before launching into our plan, let’s summarize what we discovered the two previous days. First, X’s strengths are

  • Physical: stamina
  • Movement: turning
  • Hold type: crimps
  • Solid route pyramid topping out at 11d
Read the rest of this entry »

Case Study: Climber X day 2

November 16th, 2011
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On our first day together, Climber X and I went over his 2011 route pyramid, reviewed his likes and dislikes, and evaluated his performance for key physical attributes. X’s homework assignment was to find an inspiring 13a near his home to use as a long term goal and pick a number of low end 12s to be added to a progressive pyramid for 2012. On our second day together I took a look at X’s roped climbing skills with special emphasis on the process he uses to learn and then send a redpoint project. In fact, I wanted to evaluate several things including X’s ability to sustain work over a period of time (stamina) and a number of movement skills.

We began by warming up slowing doing double laps Read the rest of this entry »

Case Study: Climber X

November 15th, 2011
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I received an email recently from a Canadian who wanted a hands-on assessment and assistance creating an improvement plan. We arranged a visit to my humble facility in central Virginia, and he arrived yesterday. I thought it might be instructive for many of us if I blogged about this real world example of how you might go about assessing your abilities, conjuring a goal, and then putting an improvement plan together. Climber X is here for the week so follow along as I dig into his abilities and desires and then help him plot a course for success. Read the rest of this entry »

Controlling Intensity

November 7th, 2011
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Additional Thoughts on Getting Better Without “Training”

In my previous post on improving without training I included the idea that intensity needs to be controlled, not necessarily increased, but controlled in a way that helps the climber meet his or her goals. The other night I had the pleasure of working with an enthusiastic young boulderer who is a good case in point for this idea. Read the rest of this entry »

The Climbing Lab Offers a Review of Redpoint

November 7th, 2011
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Thanks to our friends at The Climbing Lab for their kind review of Redpoint. You can read what they thought HERE. And while you’re there be sure to check out the rest of their blog.

Getting Better without “training”

October 26th, 2011
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by Douglas Hunter

Many climbers want to improve their performance level. 5.9 climbers desire the prestige of reaching double digits. Young sport climbers know that climbing 5.14 is the new status quo. Boulderers want to join the race for V12, V13, and beyond. Nonetheless, launching into a full training program with cycles and long term planning can be daunting and sounds like a lot of work, even to highly motivated climbers. Short of creating a full training program, what can climbers do to keep improving? Read the rest of this entry »

Program Design for climbing Part 4

October 26th, 2011
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Sport-specific training: Evaluating Climbing Activities

By Douglas Hunter

In the past few posts I’ve given basic theory with only one analysis.  So here is an invitation to more pragmatic analysis that we can do together. Read the rest of this entry »

Physical and Mental Prep for Competition Climbing

October 19th, 2011
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Dan and I received this a few days ago:

I’m really keen to improve my routine in isolation for major competitions. I have tried a

number if different things but have failed to settle on a plan that works consistently.

Something I can rely on. I take a while to properly warm up. That much I now know! But I

need to find a routine that has me walking out to the advanced isolation and then the

route primed and ready to give my best performance right on cue. The question really

seems to be how do I get fired up just enough and warmed up just enough right before

leaving the isolation? Any ideas and advice would be a huge help!” -M Read the rest of this entry »

Program Design for Climbing Part 3

October 19th, 2011
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Sport-Specific Training continued / Handgrip Exercisers

By Douglas Hunter

In part 2 I listed three basic criteria for specificity: Read the rest of this entry »