Interview With Dr. Don Reagan Part 2

May 3rd, 2012
No Gravatar

We continue the discussion, starting with some ways we can know if climbing is having a negative effect on our bodies, and then moving into some ideas about program design. Listen here:

Don Reagan Interview Part – YouTube

Our First Audio Interview: Dr. Don Reagan

April 25th, 2012
No Gravatar

This is the first installment of my interview with Dr. Don Reagan. Dr. Reagan has worked with Athletes around the country  he is Head Performance Coach and Doctor of Physical Therapy (DPT) at the Orthopaedic Center of Central Virginia as well as Adjunct Professor of Strength & Conditioning at Liberty University. He integrates rehabilitation and athletic development for the betterment of his clientele using Functional Movement Systems. He is also an ardent student of manual therapy and pain science. He has over 10 years of experience in the fitness industry, and has competed in strength sports including Olympic Weightlifting and Power Lifting.

Dan and I met Dr. Reagan over dinner in 2011 and had a great conversation. I wanted to share some Dr. Reagan’s views with our readers and he was kind enough to agree to an interview. One of the things that is most interesting about Dr. Reagan is that he participates in strength sports but he places significant emphasis on movement. Our conversation covered a number of topics from movement, to the state of sports science today, to how best to think about injury prevention. We pick up our conversation with Dr. Reagan describing the idea of global movement.  the rest of the installments of our conversation will be posted in the days to come.


here is the link: Don Reagan Interview Part – YouTube


Let us know how you like the interview and the addition of audio to the blog!

More Tactics and the Mistakes We Don’t Know we are Making

April 20th, 2012
No Gravatar

Three weeks ago I was in Bishop, shooting video at the Happy Boulders and the Buttermilks. On one day I was able to observe a climber projecting a V10.  He was having trouble with the crux move, in this case a very long reach to the left that is low to the ground and easy to work. Two things stood out to me about this climber’s efforts. He put in a huge number of tries on that move without success, and that he tried the move the same way every time.  Read the rest of this entry »

The Top 5 Performance Mistakes Climber Make

April 19th, 2012
No Gravatar

I’ve spent years observing how climbers approach the sport, and, for the most part, each could improve his or her performance by avoiding at least one of the following common mistakes. There are other, lesser mistakes to be sure, but in my experience if you become proficient in these skills you’ll be well on your way to realizing your potential as a climber.  Read the rest of this entry »

Tactics and the Mistakes We Don’t Know We Are Making

April 10th, 2012
No Gravatar

A few weeks ago I had the opportunity to climb with, and observe a climber in his 20’s who is currently working his way through the 5.11 grade. One of the climbs we were on together was a 5.11d, a grade he had not yet successfully climbed. On his first attempt he essentially tried to flash the route and fell at the crux. He hung on the rope for a minute then tried the crux again; and again he fell. After another rest he tried again, and fell again. He repeated this pattern several times before getting through the crux.  Higher on the route he took a large fall because he climbed past the obvious clipping position and attempted to clip from a far less stable position with his feet five or six feet above the last bolt.  He left the crag that day without doing the route, without learning much about the route, and with his cage rattled due to a big fall. Read the rest of this entry »

Tracking Your Climbing and Training

March 16th, 2012
No Gravatar

My apologies for going for so long without a post! I actually have several posts ready to go that I need to get up as soon as possible.

After reading Brendon’s update I was thinking about how important it is to keep track of our training. Keeping a journal being an essential part of this process. But writing everything down in the first place is just the start of the process. The learning happens when we review the contents of our journals and assess the volume, difficulty and quality of the climbing that we have done in the past weeks, month, quarter, or year.

So with that in mind, I went over my climbing journal for the end of 2011 and did an analysis that you can see here:  Climbing_review Sheet1

After have not climbed for most of 2011 I got motivated in November and started climbing on a regular basis. As you might imagine, with about a year’s worth of no real climbing my starting point was pretty low. In addition, I didn’t really create a plan in advance, I just wanted to work hard and have fun using the kind of workouts best suited to the gym I climb at. In this case, I had not done interval training in a very long time so I thought it would be fun to do bouldering circuits. Of course its not the best idea to do bouldering circuits off the couch so I started at a low level and didn’t push myself to the limit in any given workout.

What I like about breaking the numbers down as shown in the link above  is being able to see the over all change in volume in climbing as well as each grade as a percentage of completed problems.  Even without a training schedule I find this very helpful; it makes it easy to see if progress is being made, and it makes planning for the coming weeks pretty easy.

So, if you are not keeping a climbing journal please do so!  And if your are keeping a journal, don’t forget to do your reviews!



What?! March Already?

March 5th, 2012
No Gravatar

It’s March already and if you’re like a lot of climbers you spent the winter doing more dreaming of perfect sends than training. And now it’s March and you’re beginning to panic. This weekend we switch to daylight savings time and

Enough said!

combined with the warm winter we’ve had the spring climbing season can’t be far behind. So, what do you do? Can you catch up at this late date. If so, what is the most effective use of your training time for the next month? Read the rest of this entry »

A Tale of Two Brendans

January 27th, 2012
No Gravatar

About a month ago we were asked by two climbers in Salt Lake if, since we’d be there anyway for the official release of Redpoint at the Outdoor Retailer show, we’d be willing to sit down and provide some climbing improvement guidance. Apparently our travel schedules are becoming known. Anyway Brendan and Brendan (no, we haven’t changed the names to protect the innocent) were willing to work around our hectic show schedules and a date was set. Read the rest of this entry »

A Break From Climbing?

December 7th, 2011
No Gravatar

Every year I take the month of December off from climbing, but a hectic holiday schedule (why does everyone wait until December to throw a party?) is not the only reason to break. Overtraining can take a toll both physically and mentally – you might need an extended break if you’re experiencing some or all of these signs: Read the rest of this entry »

Program Design for Climbing Part 5: Efficiency

December 6th, 2011
No Gravatar

by Douglas Hunter

Efficiency can be thought of as addressing the question of what is the minimum amount of work an athlete needs to do in order to achieve the desired performance goals. Efficiency also means how well structured your climbing / training time is, in the short, medium and long term. Read the rest of this entry »