Routecrafter’s Post on Body Tension

October 15th, 2012
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I am so glad that JF, the author of the Routecrafter blog, posted in the comments on this blog because that allowed me to find his blog. I really enjoy his thoughtful analysis of the topics he writes about. I wish there were more blogs like it. Here is a link to a post from Oct. 8 that I just saw. He picks up the discussion we’ve been having here and addresses it from a course setters perspective.  I think this would be a good read for anyone who competes.  Enjoy.

Route Setting Tips and Techniques: Defining Body Tension

First Stab at Defining Body Tension

October 11th, 2012
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Things have been very busy so I have not had much time to dedicate to writing this week so this can hardly be considered a complete post (sorry!). Anyway I think a number of the comments on the previous post described salient features of body tension, and got at how and why body tension is difficult to define. For my part, I want to take a step back and start with three important basic points: Read the rest of this entry »

Interesting Post up at Eva Lopez’s Blog

October 5th, 2012
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Some folks may have already seen this but I just noticed it yesterday so I thought I would put up the link for those who are late to the party such as myself.  Its a post on locking-off in climbing where Read the rest of this entry »

Body Tension: What is it anyway?

October 4th, 2012
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I actually started this series of posts out of order by describing the joint actions and muscles at work in the front lever, an exercise often described as an excellent way of developing body tension. But I didn’t define what body tension is. We are looking for a functional definition, one that is Read the rest of this entry »

Front Levers and Climbing

September 25th, 2012
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Front levers are popularly advocated in the climbing literature as a “core workout” or for training what we call body tension. In this post I will offer an analysis of the front lever describing what muscles are at work in order to perform this demanding activity. In another post I will present an analysis of Read the rest of this entry »

Book Review Of Power Endurance by Steve Bechtel

September 19th, 2012
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Two days ago I got Steve Bechtel’s “Power Endurance” in the mail. It’s a 60 page booklet on interval training for climbing. My overall impression of this work is very positive. Bechtel’s emphasis throughout the book is on maintaining high quality of movement in all aspects of training and he is adamant about not working at such a high level that movement suffers. This is a rare perspective and its really nice to see someone writing about fitness but keeping the emphasis on the quality of movement. Other authors pay lip service to this idea but Bechtel means it. Also, Bechtel has clearly spent a lot of time experimenting with different interval structures for climbing Read the rest of this entry »

How Do We Know if a Training Activity is Effective or Not Without Trying it?

September 11th, 2012
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There is a great deal of information spread through the climbing community by books, videos, blogs, word of mouth, coaches, and other means. In an environment with so many sources of information, it can be difficult to get a sense of what is good information and what isn’t. The good news is that Read the rest of this entry »

Second Post Inspired by the McColl Training Video

August 28th, 2012
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Lock-off training has a long history in climbing, going back to at least the 1970s if not earlier, its one of those things that it seems climbers have “always” done. Part of what has made lock-off training popular has been the top climber’s who have promoted it over the years. John Bachar and his “Bachar ladder” may have been the first climber to broadly popularize lock-off training through photos and videos that showed him not only going hand over hand up the ladder, but also doing one arm pull-ups, one-arm negatives, and lock-offs. Read the rest of this entry »

Some Details on Sean McColl’s Training Video

August 13th, 2012
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Over at ClimbingNarc there was a discussion last week concerning Sean McColl’s short video of training activities. I got in a bit of hot water in that discussion. To be fair, I brought some the criticism on myself because I started off in a fairly tactless manner, and for that I apologize, but I also got in hot water because I directly confronted popular sports myth and didn’t provide the details behind my statement that the activities presented in the video were not likely to be responsible for McColl’s high level of climbing performance. I don’t think ClimbingNarc is the proper place for such a detailed discussion, but this blog is. Read the rest of this entry »

Interview with Dr. Don Reagan Part 3

May 21st, 2012
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In the final segment we start with a discussion of  the basics of program design and concludes with why icing is good even if you are not injured. Enjoy.


Don Reagan Part 3 – YouTube