Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

Interview With Dr. Don Reagan Part 2

Thursday, May 3rd, 2012
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We continue the discussion, starting with some ways we can know if climbing is having a negative effect on our bodies, and then moving into some ideas about program design. Listen here:

Don Reagan Interview Part – YouTube

Tracking Your Climbing and Training

Friday, March 16th, 2012
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My apologies for going for so long without a post! I actually have several posts ready to go that I need to get up as soon as possible.

After reading Brendon’s update I was thinking about how important it is to keep track of our training. Keeping a journal being an essential part of this process. But writing everything down in the first place is just the start of the process. The learning happens when we review the contents of our journals and assess the volume, difficulty and quality of the climbing that we have done in the past weeks, month, quarter, or year.

So with that in mind, I went over my climbing journal for the end of 2011 and did an analysis that you can see here:  Climbing_review Sheet1

After have not climbed for most of 2011 I got motivated in November and started climbing on a regular basis. As you might imagine, with about a year’s worth of no real climbing my starting point was pretty low. In addition, I didn’t really create a plan in advance, I just wanted to work hard and have fun using the kind of workouts best suited to the gym I climb at. In this case, I had not done interval training in a very long time so I thought it would be fun to do bouldering circuits. Of course its not the best idea to do bouldering circuits off the couch so I started at a low level and didn’t push myself to the limit in any given workout.

What I like about breaking the numbers down as shown in the link above  is being able to see the over all change in volume in climbing as well as each grade as a percentage of completed problems.  Even without a training schedule I find this very helpful; it makes it easy to see if progress is being made, and it makes planning for the coming weeks pretty easy.

So, if you are not keeping a climbing journal please do so!  And if your are keeping a journal, don’t forget to do your reviews!



A Tale of Two Brendans

Friday, January 27th, 2012
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About a month ago we were asked by two climbers in Salt Lake if, since we’d be there anyway for the official release of Redpoint at the Outdoor Retailer show, we’d be willing to sit down and provide some climbing improvement guidance. Apparently our travel schedules are becoming known. Anyway Brendan and Brendan (no, we haven’t changed the names to protect the innocent) were willing to work around our hectic show schedules and a date was set. (more…)

Program Design for Climbing Part 5: Efficiency

Tuesday, December 6th, 2011
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by Douglas Hunter

Efficiency can be thought of as addressing the question of what is the minimum amount of work an athlete needs to do in order to achieve the desired performance goals. Efficiency also means how well structured your climbing / training time is, in the short, medium and long term. (more…)

Five Ways to Get More Out of 4 X 4s.

Wednesday, November 30th, 2011
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By Douglas Hunter

The 4 X 4 has been the staple form of interval training for about seventeen years now but its popularity does not mean it can’t be manipulated.  Here are five suggestions for making interval training more challenging. (more…)

Case Study: Climber X day 2

Wednesday, November 16th, 2011
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On our first day together, Climber X and I went over his 2011 route pyramid, reviewed his likes and dislikes, and evaluated his performance for key physical attributes. X’s homework assignment was to find an inspiring 13a near his home to use as a long term goal and pick a number of low end 12s to be added to a progressive pyramid for 2012. On our second day together I took a look at X’s roped climbing skills with special emphasis on the process he uses to learn and then send a redpoint project. In fact, I wanted to evaluate several things including X’s ability to sustain work over a period of time (stamina) and a number of movement skills.

We began by warming up slowing doing double laps (more…)

Controlling Intensity

Monday, November 7th, 2011
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Additional Thoughts on Getting Better Without “Training”

In my previous post on improving without training I included the idea that intensity needs to be controlled, not necessarily increased, but controlled in a way that helps the climber meet his or her goals. The other night I had the pleasure of working with an enthusiastic young boulderer who is a good case in point for this idea. (more…)

The Climbing Lab Offers a Review of Redpoint

Monday, November 7th, 2011
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Thanks to our friends at The Climbing Lab for their kind review of Redpoint. You can read what they thought HERE. And while you’re there be sure to check out the rest of their blog.

Getting Better without “training”

Wednesday, October 26th, 2011
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by Douglas Hunter

Many climbers want to improve their performance level. 5.9 climbers desire the prestige of reaching double digits. Young sport climbers know that climbing 5.14 is the new status quo. Boulderers want to join the race for V12, V13, and beyond. Nonetheless, launching into a full training program with cycles and long term planning can be daunting and sounds like a lot of work, even to highly motivated climbers. Short of creating a full training program, what can climbers do to keep improving? (more…)

Redpoint is available

Thursday, September 22nd, 2011
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Our latest book Redpoint: The Self-Coached Climber’s Guide to Redpoint and On-Sight Climbing has been released and is available for purchase. What’s is about, you ask?

We help climbers learn routes faster and with less effort so they can send in less time.

We lay out the process of learning and memorizing sequences, rests, and movement nuance faster so you can send harder routes in less time using less effort. There’s also an on-sight performance section in which we help climbers read routes from afar and tips on applying the process to bouldering. Plus the physical conditioning and emotional response elements pertinent to each type of climbing.

Visit our store to get your copy!