Archive for the ‘Science & theory of Training’ Category

How Do We Know if a Training Activity is Effective or Not Without Trying it?

Tuesday, September 11th, 2012
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There is a great deal of information spread through the climbing community by books, videos, blogs, word of mouth, coaches, and other means. In an environment with so many sources of information, it can be difficult to get a sense of what is good information and what isn’t. The good news is that (more…)

Second Post Inspired by the McColl Training Video

Tuesday, August 28th, 2012
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Lock-off training has a long history in climbing, going back to at least the 1970s if not earlier, its one of those things that it seems climbers have “always” done. Part of what has made lock-off training popular has been the top climber’s who have promoted it over the years. John Bachar and his “Bachar ladder” may have been the first climber to broadly popularize lock-off training through photos and videos that showed him not only going hand over hand up the ladder, but also doing one arm pull-ups, one-arm negatives, and lock-offs. (more…)

Some Details on Sean McColl’s Training Video

Monday, August 13th, 2012
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Over at ClimbingNarc there was a discussion last week concerning Sean McColl’s short video of training activities. I got in a bit of hot water in that discussion. To be fair, I brought some the criticism on myself because I started off in a fairly tactless manner, and for that I apologize, but I also got in hot water because I directly confronted popular sports myth and didn’t provide the details behind my statement that the activities presented in the video were not likely to be responsible for McColl’s high level of climbing performance. I don’t think ClimbingNarc is the proper place for such a detailed discussion, but this blog is. (more…)

Program Design for Climbing Part 3

Wednesday, October 19th, 2011
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Sport-Specific Training continued / Handgrip Exercisers

By Douglas Hunter

In part 2 I listed three basic criteria for specificity: (more…)

Program Design for Climbing Part 2

Wednesday, October 12th, 2011
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Sport-Specific Training

By Douglas Hunter

In my first post the first item on my list of program design elements was understanding the proper use of, and differences between training activities; as well as understanding the differences between primary and supplemental training.

This was intentional, as it’s an issue that is widely misunderstood in the climbing community; many books and articles have not done a good job making the distinction between primary and supplemental training. Further, the principle of specificity is largely missing from the climbing literature. (more…)

Program Design for Climbing Part 1

Thursday, October 6th, 2011
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Aspects of Program Design
By Douglas Hunter

Dan has been working single handed on the blog for a while but with the publication of Redpoint this month I figure that I have been slacking long enough and am going to start regular contributions. I plan on doing something each week, I’ll be using text, audio and video. I will also look for ways to include readers as well.

The very first topic I want to address is one that is important to everyone who engages in any sort of training, (more…)