Stretching is an old topic but understanding the utility of stretching, and becoming someone that stretches well takes some effort. In this post I want to get into some of the details of stretching the extensors and flexors of the wrist and fingers. We put tremendous stress on these muscles in climbing and (more…)
Archive for the ‘Physical training’ Category
Things have been very busy so I have not had much time to dedicate to writing this week so this can hardly be considered a complete post (sorry!). Anyway I think a number of the comments on the previous post described salient features of body tension, and got at how and why body tension is difficult to define. For my part, I want to take a step back and start with three important basic points: (more…)
Some folks may have already seen this but I just noticed it yesterday so I thought I would put up the link for those who are late to the party such as myself. Its a post on locking-off in climbing where (more…)
Front levers are popularly advocated in the climbing literature as a “core workout” or for training what we call body tension. In this post I will offer an analysis of the front lever describing what muscles are at work in order to perform this demanding activity. In another post I will present an analysis of (more…)
Two days ago I got Steve Bechtel’s “Power Endurance” in the mail. It’s a 60 page booklet on interval training for climbing. My overall impression of this work is very positive. Bechtel’s emphasis throughout the book is on maintaining high quality of movement in all aspects of training and he is adamant about not working at such a high level that movement suffers. This is a rare perspective and its really nice to see someone writing about fitness but keeping the emphasis on the quality of movement. Other authors pay lip service to this idea but Bechtel means it. Also, Bechtel has clearly spent a lot of time experimenting with different interval structures for climbing (more…)
There is a great deal of information spread through the climbing community by books, videos, blogs, word of mouth, coaches, and other means. In an environment with so many sources of information, it can be difficult to get a sense of what is good information and what isn’t. The good news is that (more…)
Lock-off training has a long history in climbing, going back to at least the 1970s if not earlier, its one of those things that it seems climbers have “always” done. Part of what has made lock-off training popular has been the top climber’s who have promoted it over the years. John Bachar and his “Bachar ladder” may have been the first climber to broadly popularize lock-off training through photos and videos that showed him not only going hand over hand up the ladder, but also doing one arm pull-ups, one-arm negatives, and lock-offs. (more…)
Over at ClimbingNarc there was a discussion last week concerning Sean McColl’s short video of training activities. I got in a bit of hot water in that discussion. To be fair, I brought some the criticism on myself because I started off in a fairly tactless manner, and for that I apologize, but I also got in hot water because I directly confronted popular sports myth and didn’t provide the details behind my statement that the activities presented in the video were not likely to be responsible for McColl’s high level of climbing performance. I don’t think ClimbingNarc is the proper place for such a detailed discussion, but this blog is. (more…)
This is the first installment of my interview with Dr. Don Reagan. Dr. Reagan has worked with Athletes around the country he is Head Performance Coach and Doctor of Physical Therapy (DPT) at the Orthopaedic Center of Central Virginia as well as Adjunct Professor of Strength & Conditioning at Liberty University. He integrates rehabilitation and athletic development for the betterment of his clientele using Functional Movement Systems. He is also an ardent student of manual therapy and pain science. He has over 10 years of experience in the fitness industry, and has competed in strength sports including Olympic Weightlifting and Power Lifting.
Dan and I met Dr. Reagan over dinner in 2011 and had a great conversation. I wanted to share some Dr. Reagan’s views with our readers and he was kind enough to agree to an interview. One of the things that is most interesting about Dr. Reagan is that he participates in strength sports but he places significant emphasis on movement. Our conversation covered a number of topics from movement, to the state of sports science today, to how best to think about injury prevention. We pick up our conversation with Dr. Reagan describing the idea of global movement. the rest of the installments of our conversation will be posted in the days to come.
here is the link: Don Reagan Interview Part 1.mov – YouTube
Let us know how you like the interview and the addition of audio to the blog!
It’s March already and if you’re like a lot of climbers you spent the winter doing more dreaming of perfect sends than training. And now it’s March and you’re beginning to panic. This weekend we switch to daylight savings time and
combined with the warm winter we’ve had the spring climbing season can’t be far behind. So, what do you do? Can you catch up at this late date. If so, what is the most effective use of your training time for the next month? (more…)