In the previous installment, I discussed three of six important elements to effective and efficient climbing. Here’s what I said last time, it’s worth repeating here:

Effective and efficient, that’s your goal. Effectiveness yields results without regard for the effort necessary; it’s simply defined as success. Efficiency is not concerned with success but rather the ease with which each particular movement can be performed. Both are necessary. Effectiveness without efficiency means wasted effort as you muscle your way through sequences; you can never climb to your potential without being efficient. Efficiency without effectiveness yields failure; for example, the easiest way to complete a sequence might put you in a poor position for the next set of moves.

4. Dynamic movement

Dynamic movement is often the easiest way to reach your next hold.

Number four on my list is moving using momentum. New climbers can erroneously come to see slow, static movement as desirable. It looks graceful and controlled, but it’s not always the easiest way to get from hold A to hold B. Sometimes properly applied momentum can carry you over a difficult move with much less effort than locking off one hold while you slowly reach for the next.

Learn to use momentum by first moving both hands simultaneously from one hold to another on a vertical wall. Use large holds and feel how moving your hips can affect the feel and effectiveness of the momentum. As you get better extend the throw then try moving a single hand instead of both better known in climbing circles as a deadpoint.

5. Specialized technique

At some point you’ll need to incorporate specific types of movement skills into your repertoire. Let’s discuss what’s probably the most utilized of these special techniques: the heel hook. (more…)

Effective and efficient, that’s your goal. Effectiveness yields results without regard for the effort necessary; it’s simply defined as success. Efficiency is not concerned with success but rather the ease with which each particular movement can be performed. Both are necessary. Effectiveness without efficiency means wasted effort as you muscle your way through sequences; you can never climb to your potential without being efficient. Efficiency without effectiveness yields failure; for example, the easiest way to complete a sequence might put you in a poor position for the next set of moves.

I’ve found through observation, study, and trial and error, that there are six primary determinants of effective and efficient movement. Today we’ll go over the first three. I’ll publish the second three in a week or so.

1. Precise feet

Precise foot placement is the first order of business in climbing efficiency.

Number one is always precise foot placement. If you’re climbing near your limit on holds that you can barely use, you better not waste any time placing your feet. You simply must get your foot quickly and precisely to the exact spot it’s needed without adjustment or delay. Any extra time spent bumping your foot around a hold means you’re extending the time that you’re exerting tremendous effort using those poor hand holds.

The silent foot exercise is the best way to improve foot placement precision. You attempt to climb without making any noise with your feet. It’s easier said than done and requires concentrated effort over an extended period of time. Begin on an easy climb and go slow, as you get better increase both your speed and the difficulty of the climbing until you can move at your normal pace on difficult terrain and still place your feet precisely.

2. Turning

Number two on my list is turning. There is no substitute for the leverage that turning side-to-side in appropriate circumstances provides. Turning helps you use the big, powerful muscles of your core and upper back rather than the much weaker biceps to reach the next hold. (more…)