Archive for the ‘General’ Category

Climbing is Sexist

Wednesday, March 19th, 2014
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Sexism in climbing as a Performance Issue.

(I started the blog post a long time ago but didn’t finish it until this week)

A few months ago Kristin Horowitz penned a blog post titled “The Importance of a Good Emcee: Psicobloc Masters Series and Sexism” A  lengthy critique of the competition’s live webcast focusing on every flaw of the on-air hosts performances, including the sexism of the male host (more…)

Proper Method of Stretching the Forearms

Tuesday, March 11th, 2014
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Stretching is an old topic but understanding the utility of stretching, and becoming someone that stretches well takes some effort. In this post I want to get into some of the details of stretching the extensors and flexors of the wrist and fingers. We put tremendous stress on these muscles in climbing and (more…)

More on Body Tension

Friday, November 30th, 2012
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Movement Terms

Sorry that I have been silent lately. Going into the Thanks Giving holiday I got really disorganized and stopped making time to blog. Anyway lets get back to body tension.  This is a video I made that provides a number of basic joint actions and the vocabulary used to describe them. I am putting this up now because I think it will make understanding the video analysis of body tension a lot easier.

Basic Movement Terms

Some may ask why we need to know and use such a specialized language. The first answer is because it’s far easier than the alternative in which people just make up their own terms and there is no precise and universal way to talk about body movement. Second this language is very helpful in a variety of settings such as when talking to sports doctors concerning injuries or movement problems. If you can describe what causes pain in these terms it will be easier for a professional to understand what you are telling them.   Finally, correctly understanding and labeling movement is the way we accurately identify what muscles contribute to that movement which is necessary for a number of reasons including movement analysis and the development of conditioning programs.

Concerning further posts on body tension I am taking g’s suggestion of sub categories seriously and I think its possible to describe perhaps three subcategories so I am working on these descriptions and hope to have them completed soon.

Theory of Body Tension

Monday, November 5th, 2012
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I have not posted on the blog in the past two weeks because I have been doing a lot of study / writing about body tension, as well as coaching and course setting which has been a lot of fun. Anyway, I think I have come up with a good mechanical description of what body tension is; but this description is getting long and it includes several concepts not commonly discussed in climbing circles so I need to lay some groundwork prior to getting down to brass tacks. I am dividing my lengthy description into several posts. The first two posts provide the background for the later posts. If I can get the writing done I hope to have all the posts up by early next week.    (more…)

Routecrafter’s Post on Body Tension

Monday, October 15th, 2012
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I am so glad that JF, the author of the Routecrafter blog, posted in the comments on this blog because that allowed me to find his blog. I really enjoy his thoughtful analysis of the topics he writes about. I wish there were more blogs like it. Here is a link to a post from Oct. 8 that I just saw. He picks up the discussion we’ve been having here and addresses it from a course setters perspective.  I think this would be a good read for anyone who competes.  Enjoy.

Route Setting Tips and Techniques: Defining Body Tension

First Stab at Defining Body Tension

Thursday, October 11th, 2012
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Things have been very busy so I have not had much time to dedicate to writing this week so this can hardly be considered a complete post (sorry!). Anyway I think a number of the comments on the previous post described salient features of body tension, and got at how and why body tension is difficult to define. For my part, I want to take a step back and start with three important basic points: (more…)

How Do We Know if a Training Activity is Effective or Not Without Trying it?

Tuesday, September 11th, 2012
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There is a great deal of information spread through the climbing community by books, videos, blogs, word of mouth, coaches, and other means. In an environment with so many sources of information, it can be difficult to get a sense of what is good information and what isn’t. The good news is that (more…)

Our First Audio Interview: Dr. Don Reagan

Wednesday, April 25th, 2012
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This is the first installment of my interview with Dr. Don Reagan. Dr. Reagan has worked with Athletes around the country  he is Head Performance Coach and Doctor of Physical Therapy (DPT) at the Orthopaedic Center of Central Virginia as well as Adjunct Professor of Strength & Conditioning at Liberty University. He integrates rehabilitation and athletic development for the betterment of his clientele using Functional Movement Systems. He is also an ardent student of manual therapy and pain science. He has over 10 years of experience in the fitness industry, and has competed in strength sports including Olympic Weightlifting and Power Lifting.

Dan and I met Dr. Reagan over dinner in 2011 and had a great conversation. I wanted to share some Dr. Reagan’s views with our readers and he was kind enough to agree to an interview. One of the things that is most interesting about Dr. Reagan is that he participates in strength sports but he places significant emphasis on movement. Our conversation covered a number of topics from movement, to the state of sports science today, to how best to think about injury prevention. We pick up our conversation with Dr. Reagan describing the idea of global movement.  the rest of the installments of our conversation will be posted in the days to come.


here is the link: Don Reagan Interview Part – YouTube


Let us know how you like the interview and the addition of audio to the blog!

More Tactics and the Mistakes We Don’t Know we are Making

Friday, April 20th, 2012
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Three weeks ago I was in Bishop, shooting video at the Happy Boulders and the Buttermilks. On one day I was able to observe a climber projecting a V10.  He was having trouble with the crux move, in this case a very long reach to the left that is low to the ground and easy to work. Two things stood out to me about this climber’s efforts. He put in a huge number of tries on that move without success, and that he tried the move the same way every time.  (more…)

The Top 5 Performance Mistakes Climber Make

Thursday, April 19th, 2012
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I’ve spent years observing how climbers approach the sport, and, for the most part, each could improve his or her performance by avoiding at least one of the following common mistakes. There are other, lesser mistakes to be sure, but in my experience if you become proficient in these skills you’ll be well on your way to realizing your potential as a climber.  (more…)