Every year I take the month of December off from climbing, but a hectic holiday schedule (why does everyone wait until December to throw a party?) is not the only reason to break. Overtraining can take a toll both physically and mentally – you might need an extended break if you’re experiencing some or all of these signs: (more…)
The goal of our last working session was to piece together a training plan for X. Before launching into our plan, let’s summarize what we discovered the two previous days. First, X’s strengths are
I received an email recently from a Canadian who wanted a hands-on assessment and assistance creating an improvement plan. We arranged a visit to my humble facility in central Virginia, and he arrived yesterday. I thought it might be instructive for many of us if I blogged about this real world example of how you might go about assessing your abilities, conjuring a goal, and then putting an improvement plan together. Climber X is here for the week so follow along as I dig into his abilities and desires and then help him plot a course for success. (more…)
Sport-Specific Training continued / Handgrip Exercisers
By Douglas Hunter
In part 2 I listed three basic criteria for specificity: (more…)
Sport-Specific Training
By Douglas Hunter
In my first post the first item on my list of program design elements was understanding the proper use of, and differences between training activities; as well as understanding the differences between primary and supplemental training.
This was intentional, as it’s an issue that is widely misunderstood in the climbing community; many books and articles have not done a good job making the distinction between primary and supplemental training. Further, the principle of specificity is largely missing from the climbing literature. (more…)
A Tale of Two Brendans
With this kind of volume it's no surprise you're feeling more fit. Keep up the good work, and go ...
A Tale of Two Brendans
02/14/12 UPDATE:
3.5 weeks and 12 workouts in, solid progress. Aerobic Endurance level=5.11a/b. ...
A Tale of Two Brendans
Brendan,
Its great that you guys quantified where you stand now and have such a strong picture...
A Tale of Two Brendans
01/27/12 UPDATE:
We settled on a training plan of alternating stamina and anaerobic workouts wi...
A Break From Climbing?
DanR,
Yes some pushing exercises will help especially those emphasizing the shoulders rather t...
A Break From Climbing?
I'm keen on using the winter to catch up in all around fitness, especially in areas that might he...
Program Design for climbing Part 4
Recently I came across an interesting series of training article on ukclimbing.com about training...